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Discussion Starter #1
I decided to look at the possibility to have my mirrors
fold/unfold automatically like the newer car options. The following guide is for those cars that have
electric folding mirrors with the appropriate switch. Please note you do this
on your own risk and I take no responsibility for any mishaps. Sorry the guide is not picture rich You will need an autofold module, crimp bullet connectors, some scot-lock type ;although i prefer to solder.and a test light preferably a led 12v bulbThis is the passenger door left hand drive how to take the door card off but the same principlehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhIm0EaD9JU

Take off drivers door card there are two screws at the
bottom one on the side and three others with finishing caps, prise off with a
suitable plastic tool, unlip the door opener or just lay it to oneside with the card. The card is quite stiff to come off and you may need one or two spare plastic door fasteners when refitting. Unclip all the door switches. Observe the mirror switch there
are two double greys ,and two double purple at position 1 and 10 .Remove some tape near switch. Cut these two
wires leaving about 15mm at the switch end to have enough room to crimp insulated bullet connections to switch. The cut ends going to mirrors- fit female insulated bullet crimps. Then what you have at the switch is two male bullet crimps on each grey and purple wires.The two cut ends to the mirrors will have female bullet crimps Grey and purple(note the grey and purple are doubled to serve
both mirrors. As an extra connection I soldered the wires and then crimped. So to clarify:

On the switch purple double wires make one malebulletinsulated crimpOn the switch grey double wires make one male bulletinsulated crimpOn the cut ends going to mirror purple double wires make one female bullet insulated crimpOn the cut ends going to mirror grey double wires make one female bullet insulated crimpOn the module make male bullet crimp insulated connectors to the orange
and brown wires

On the module make female bullet crimp connections to the grey and
white wires

I used this system as you can return
to standard for any reason by simply connecting the male and female connectors
back together on the switch. I have found that there are poorly made crimp connectors being sold out there so my advise is to go for good quality ones

The black plug is the mirror switch observe double purple and you can just see double grey wires at positions 1 and 10 (diagonally)
Wiring connectionsSwitch side purple(double) male bullet to grey wire module female bulletSwitch side grey (double) male bullet to white wire module female bulletCut end: purple(double) female bullet to Orange (Module) male bullet

Cut end: Grey(double)female bulletto Brown
(Module) male bulletYou do not need to alter or cut any other wires on the 10 pin mirror switch other than the purple and grey

12v+ supply module red to large red in harness on door

AC 12v yellow module to brown on window connector rear
window switch

Black earth on module to a convenient bolt on the door Blue wire from module this is the lock pulse wire connect to door lock pulse wire

Please note there is only a 12v supply on approach in the door or using
unlock on fob in the car and is only live for about 5 to 7 minutes if the car
is not started. Carefully and partially
pull back the moisture backing foam and you will see white wires coming from
the door lock . The 12 volt pulse from door switch can be found by the
following method: as all the wires coming from the door lock are all white you
will need a test lead with one end grounded with a 12v led bulb or any low current indicator, penetrate
the white wires with a safety pin in
turn(these are the larger white wires) each wire whilst using the fob to lock,
the bulb will momentary light up when you find the lock pulse wire. I found my
multimeter was too slow to register the 12v. Note only the blue pulse wire on the module is used .I soldered and heat shrinked this wire to the found white pulse wire.. The following actions are enabled: Unlock with fob- mirrors open. Lock with fob- mirrors close. Approach car keyless mode and open door--mirrors open. Leave car mirrors- fold. The manual switch still operates normally if required if you want to fold passing a narrow entrance etc




 

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Stro. What a star Excellent guide, I might have to give it a try myself if I can pluck up the courage. Wish there was a few more pics. I'll report back if I'm successful.
 

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Thanks for this.I have been thinking of doing this for a while now but have been unsure. I have now ordered one and will give it a go.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Wavey Davey said:
Stro. What a star Excellent guide, I might have to give it a try myself if I can pluck up the courage. Wish there was a few more pics. I'll report back if I'm successful.
Hi thanks I did some pics but my camera skills let me down. A bonus is you know your car is locked if you don't hear the beep.The only tricky bit was cutting the wires at the switch and fitting bullets I soldered the ends before crimping. You cant go wrong if you follow the colour combinations got this picture of pulse connection in door
..good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Some of the original descriptions I made have been mixed up because of the new system introduced
so to clarify
on the mirror switch make 2 male bullet connection on the grey and purple wires
on the cut ends of the mirrors switch that go to the mirrors ..make 2 female bullets
on the module make 2 male bullet connections on the brown and orange
on the module make 2 female bullet connections on the white and grey
Wiring connections
purple male bullet from switch to grey female bullet(module)
grey male bullet from switch to white female bullet(module)
cut end from switch grey female bullet to male bullet brown(module)
cut end from switch purple female bullet to male bullet orange(module)
red wire from module to large red in door harness
yellow wire from module to brown wire on window plug
blue wire to door lock as described above
 

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Some of the original descriptions I made have been mixed up because of the new system introduced
so to clarify
on the mirror switch make 2 male bullet connection on the grey and purple wires
on the cut ends of the mirrors switch that go to the mirrors ..make 2 female bullets
on the module make 2 male bullet connections on the brown and orange
on the module make 2 female bullet connections on the white and grey
Wiring connections
purple male bullet from switch to grey female bullet(module)
grey male bullet from switch to white female bullet(module)
cut end from switch grey female bullet to male bullet brown(module)
cut end from switch purple female bullet to male bullet orange(module)
red wire from module to large red in door harness
yellow wire from module to brown wire on window plug
blue wire to door lock as described above
Not having done much in the way of car wiring, but having done LOADS in 12V boat wiring, a question?

Are all the male bullets you mentioned above not live? In boats I would ensure that anything that could be live would be female, and the other side male... that way you don't let smoke out of the wires if there's an accidental male to ground connection...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi no because the male connector will join the appropriate insulated female bullet I used bullet connections because of their compactness but you could use any male/female connectors
 

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Hi no because the male connector will join the appropriate insulated female bullet I used bullet connections because of their compactness but you could use any male/female connectors
That's not what I mean... If (prior to joining the halves of the bullet) a male is live, and it touches the door, you stand a risk of getting a big spark, and melting the wire... The live part of a bullet/spade pair SHOULD be the female part..., then if the male part touches anything no risk of an issue surprise:grin:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That's not what I mean... If (prior to joining the halves of the bullet) a male is live, and it touches the door, you stand a risk of getting a big spark, and melting the wire... The live part of a bullet/spade pair SHOULD be the female part..., then if the male part touches anything no risk of an issue surprise:grin:
Yes assuming you are working in an environment where there is live power but I disconnect the power first and anyway the power to the door is shut off automatically after 6/7 minutesangel:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Would be great if you've made a YouTube video of this. It's hard to follow these instructions.
Hi sorry can't do a youtube post as I would have to take off the door card etc again. Basically all you have to do is cut two wires on the switch and locate the door lock pulse wire and wire the module as the diagram
 

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Hi Stro
I have finally decided to have a go at this. Could you just confirm that the live pulse wire is only live for 5/7 minutes. Many thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi the pulse trigger wire signal will be only be a couple of nano seconds when you operate the remote . You need to make a 12 v led test lead with one end grounded .Locate the white wires coming from the lock and in turn penetrate with a pin and attach the other end of the led to the pin..then operate the remote and if its the correct wire the lead will light momentarily
 

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Hi the pulse trigger wire signal will be only be a couple of nano seconds when you operate the remote . You need to make a 12 v led test lead with one end grounded .Locate the white wires coming from the lock and in turn penetrate with a pin and attach the other end of the led to the pin..then operate the remote and if its the correct wire the lead will light momentarily
Hi Stro. Many thanks
 
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