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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys!
It's my first post in forum,had few probems in the past but happily solve them here. I spent some time searching but didn't find a similar topic so here I go.

I'm a happy user of 14 plate TCE 1.2 Auto EDC from almost 2 years,

I have one problem that I can't solve, very strong smell of petrol in oil.
Three months ago I done the service and the old oil had the smell of petrol, changed for new and just after few weeks it came back.
Last year I had the same smell but I ignored it, now it's time to fix that as I think petrol in engine oil could make some issues in future.
Most of the time im doing very short routes 2 miles one way to work + some shopping, but even after a long ride smell remains.
Any ideas how it's getting there and how can I solve the problem?
 

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Could be just crankcase gases, made worse by short journeys. Is there any indication the oil level is increasing? If not, it's unlikely it's being diluted by fuel. Maybe check crankcase ventilation....
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for quick response,

Oil lvl is not increasing or doing it very slowly, it's on almost max lvl just like after last service

I'll check crankcase ventilation

It's possible that because of the short trips the choke has been on for most of the time
So should I be worried about it, how can I stop getting it to the oil?
 

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If the car is only doing short journeys and therefore the fuel mixture is "rich" a lot of the time, just change the oil more often if the smell is bothering you..... maybe every 6 months instead of annually
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi, I'm writing an update in case anyone has the same problem in the future.

Maybe check crankcase ventilation
Checked, all good no leaks.

If the car is only doing short journeys and therefore the fuel mixture is "rich" a lot of the time, just change the oil more often if the smell is bothering you..... maybe every 6 months instead of annually
I know it's a common problem on short journeys, but I'm bit worried as it turns black with the smell just after about 3 weeks.
It gave me an idea and then I want to check the MAP sensor, any ideas how to check condition of it?

Also from googling the issue on 1.2 tce lot of people are recommending new spark plugs, I gonna change them as well as the oil and I'll check is it helps.
 

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There are videos on youtube on how to clean one, with a MAP sensor cleaning spray,
There are more extensive videos on how to electrically test one again youtube.
the sensor is quite cheap under £30 on ebay

Here's an example

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi, I'm writing an update,
Following youtube instructions I checked and cleaned both sensors, they were fairly clean and don't have any working issues.
I'm now doing a cycle with oil and petrol additives to clean in a bit from inside, as recommended on instructions after next 300 miles i'll change the oil and on the occasion will install new spark plugs.


Maybe because i'm doing short trips the carburettor & EGR valve are in bad condition? Sould the computer detect it and show any warnings? Have any of you tried clean it yourself?
 

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I am having the same problems on a Megane 2016 (May). Strong oile smell and changed my driving to mainly short distances.
It seems the oil level has risen about 0.2 liter in the last 2000 km since the last maintenance.
My oil doesn't get black in any time like that. Sure you are using the right and exact one ?

Do you still have the car ? Anything changed ? You came to any conclusion ?


The problem has been described on French websites that talk about the 1.2 tce 'motorgate' scandal or problem.
It seems remapping has been done for the injection computer to solve other problems that occured <2015 or something.
It tends, as a consequence of this mapping, to draw / suck petrol (vacuum cleaner effect) into the oil.

Dealers tells me as long as i am not consuming any oil, everything is ok, but I am totally not feeling comfortable about the matter. Diluted oil can not be healthy for the engine and the end becomes nearer than it should be.
These engines do have a lot of problems : previous models had the valve damage (melting) and fusion with other valve or spark plugs.
All models have chain stretching problems, tensioner (for the chain) problems, the described remapping that causes an other problem, oil consumption problems.
The latter seems to be a main cause of expensive repairs.
Some come from the factory like that and consume up to 1 liter per 500 km.
Only engine replacement is an option for that.

No idea how long my engine can still go on if I change oil every 5000 or so. Anybody has any experience about this problem ?
 

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Oil dilution is becoming more common and there are many causes. Engine tolerances, cold starting, fuel injection problems, even stop - start. Dilution obviously causes lubrication issues and some engine oils are manufactured to compensate for this. When fuel gets into the crankcase some will slowly evaporate but modern fuels contain bio compounds that remain behind. These are not good (especially bio diesel). Oil levels are supposed to fall over time. If they are increasing, accelerated engine wear can be the only result. The only solutions are an appropriate engine oil and an oil change frequency to match the driving cycles. Plus of course an engine with efficient injectors etc.
 

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I guess what I am saying above is that, if the engine is running well, efficiently and economically then we should look at our driving cycle. If there is nothing we can change and the oil level keeps rising then more frequent changes are the only option to maintain a good engine life. Some oils claim to be better at this. I had one service mechanic actually say, after an oil change, that he hadn't topped the new oil to the "full" mark since it was likely to rise as I used the car. Ha Ha.
It can often be worse with diesels too, as the cylinder pressures are much higher And don't forget that coolant can also get into the engine oil.
 

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I complained to my dealer about the smell of petrol in the engine oil.
A mechanic there told me that if my engine was bad, it is always noticable inside the cilinder. Cilinder walls will show degraded and damaged.

After checking the engine inside with a camera (cilinder), the dealer contacted Renault and they agreed on putting a brand new engine in.
It seems there was damage noticable in two cilinders.

One guy from an other dealership told me it's a part of the design of the engine, getting injected from the side and this way disolving the oil on the cilinder wall in one certain spot. In this case the petrol works as a degreaser.

The car was under warranty (for five years), had around 37000 km and maintenance was always done at the same Renault dealer / garage.
I asked for oil changes more often than what Renault advised.
Did them every year and / or not exceeding 12.000 km.

I read some things that were probably the case for my 1,2 TCE.

I do a lot of short drives lately. It is said short distances and a lot of Start Stop traffic is bad for the engine. For all engines but for this one even more ?

When i bought the car it got an update to prevent the oil consumption from occuring but lately petrol was mixed with oil.
I saw an oil level rise of 0.2 liter about 2000 km after oil change and the smell of petrol was not just a bit.

Now my worry is that the new engine 1,2 TCE (even though i am grateful for Renault's cooperation and no hustle solution) will be the same crap as the one before;
If I drive short distances to work, maybe this engine will go broken even faster as I used to do a lot longer drives before.
Didn't change so long time ago so the damage must have been building up quite a while.

So.. What's the use of feeling safe after the engine change ?
Is there a reason to think that it will go better this time.

Knowing a lot of engines now are downsized, using turbo's and direct injection, ... What is the car that can still stand short distances and get 200.000 km or even 100.000 without predictable screwing up ?
 
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